Autumn Foliage Beyond Kyoto

Most travelers planning a koyo trip plan for Kyoto in November. By then the wave has been moving south through Japan for almost two months. Hokkaido peaks in mid-September, Tohoku in late October, the Tokyo region in early November. Pick the timing first, the city second.

When to go

Approximate peak windows from regional tourism boards and JR Group forecasts:

• Hokkaido alpine (Daisetsuzan): mid-September; the earliest koyo in Japan
• Tohoku (Naruko Gorge, Towada-Hachimantai): late October to early November
• Nikko (Lake Chuzenji and Iroha-zaka): mid to late October
• Tokyo region (Mt. Takao): mid-November to early December

Forecasts shift one to two weeks year-to-year on summer temperatures. Check the JR fall foliage report from late August on.

Daisetsuzan, Hokkaido

The earliest serious koyo in Japan, three to four weeks ahead of Tokyo. Asahidake and Kurodake, the two ropeway-accessible peaks, peak around mid-September with the alpine zones turning before the lower forests do. The Asahidake ropeway is reachable by direct bus from JR Asahikawa Station, around 90 minutes. The Kurodake side runs out of Sounkyo Onsen, which makes a viable overnight base. Snowfall on the highest stretches can begin during peak koyo, so bring layers.

Naruko Gorge, Miyagi

A V-shaped river valley, one of Tohoku's most photographed koyo sites for late-October colour. Beech, maple, and oak fill the slopes; the gorge's pedestrian bridge gives the postcard view. Peak runs late October into early November, year on year. Reachable by JR Rikuu East Line from Sendai (about 80 minutes); Naruko Onsen makes an obvious overnight pairing.

Nikko, Tochigi

The colour cascades down by elevation: Senjogahara and the high meadows in early October, Lake Chuzenji and Akechidaira mid-October, the Iroha-zaka switchback road in late October, Nikko town and the temple complex in early November. Buses up Iroha-zaka run heavy delays through October weekends; weekday mornings are the working window. From Tokyo by Tobu line, around two hours.

Mt. Takao

The closest koyo to central Tokyo, an hour from Shinjuku by Keio line. Peak runs mid-November to early December, holding colour past the Kyoto and Nikko windows. The Mount Takao Autumn Leaves Festival runs through November. Cable car queues build by 09:00 on weekends; the Trail 1 walking route is faster on a clear morning.

Image: From Ooyagawa Bridge by Koichi Shibata, CC BY-SA 3.0.