Sapporo in Winter

Sapporo winters are serious. December through February, the city averages five meters of snowfall. Streets are plowed into corridors. Steam rises from manhole covers. And somehow, this is exactly when Sapporo is at its best.

Nijo Market at Dawn

Nijo Market has been Sapporo's kitchen since the early Meiji period, taking its modern form by 1903. In winter, the stalls run hot miso soup alongside the usual crab, uni, and salmon roe bowls. The fishmongers wear rubber boots and heavy gloves. You will want both. Get there before 8 AM, when the selection is widest and the crowds are thinnest. Point at what looks good. They will prepare it.

The Snow Festival (Early February)

The Sapporo Snow Festival fills Odori Park with massive illuminated ice sculptures, some three stories tall. The main site stretches 1.5 kilometers. Evening is best, when the sculptures are lit and the falling snow catches the light. Wear layers. Thermal socks. Hand warmers in every pocket.

The Susukino ice bar district puts up its own sculptures, these ones carved from clear ice, glowing from within. Walk between the two sites through the underground shopping passages that connect much of central Sapporo. The city was built for winter.

Ramen in Earnest

Sapporo-style ramen uses miso broth, thick and warming, topped with butter and sweet corn. This is not delicate food. This is fuel for negative temperatures. The concentration of ramen shops in the Susukino area means you can try a different bowl every meal for a week. The local preference runs rich: order kaedama (extra noodles) only if you mean it.

Sapporo Beer Museum

The red-brick former brewery from 1890 now houses exhibits on Hokkaido's brewing history. The tasting hall at the end pours three varieties including a limited Star Hall reserve. On a winter afternoon, sitting in a brick hall with a cold glass while snow falls past the windows, the marketing works.

Moerenuma Park

Isamu Noguchi designed this park as a single large sculpture. In winter, the geometric hills become sledding runs and cross-country ski trails. The glass pyramid (Hidamari) stays warm inside, a geometric greenhouse where you can sit with coffee and watch the snow landscape through floor-to-ceiling glass.

Tanukikoji After Dark

Sapporo's oldest covered shopping arcade runs seven blocks through the city center. By day it is ordinary retail. After dark, the izakaya and bars along the southern edge come alive. Genghis Khan (jingisukan) grilled lamb is the local drinking food. The dome-shaped grill sits at the center of the table. You cook your own.

Getting There

New Chitose Airport to Sapporo Station: 37 minutes by rapid train. The Sapporo subway system covers the city efficiently. In winter, allow extra time for everything. The cold slows the pace, and that is fine.