Yamashiro Onsen

The most traditional of the four Kaga Onsen towns, Yamashiro Onsen centers on two beautifully reconstructed public bathhouses. Soyu and Kosoyu, that anchor the town's compact, walkable core. Soyu's striking exterior, lacquered in vivid colors by artist and Kutani ceramicist Rosanjin, is worth seeing even if you do not go in for a soak. The surrounding streets have a pleasantly old-fashioned atmosphere, with ryokan, craft shops, and small eateries. Evenings are the best time to visit, when the bathhouses are lit up and the pace slows to a gentle stroll.