Taiyuin Mausoleum

The spectacular mausoleum of the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, who consolidated his grandfather's legacy and closed Japan to the outside world for two centuries. While part of the Rinnoji Temple complex, Taiyuin is a separate visit with its own entrance fee. The approach passes through increasingly elaborate gates, each more ornate than the last. The Nitenmon, the largest gate, features two fearsome guardian figures and intricate carvings. Unlike the gold-and-red Toshogu, Taiyuin uses a more subdued black-and-gold palette out of deference to Ieyasu's shrine above. The innermost hall, the Haiden and Honden, are masterpieces of Edo-era decoration. The entire complex was deliberately built to face uphill toward Toshogu, a gesture of eternal respect from grandson to grandfather. Less crowded than Toshogu but equally impressive in craftsmanship.