Suntory Museum

Inside Tokyo Midtown's third floor, architect Kengo Kuma wrapped this museum in vertical wooden louvers and washi paper screens that filter natural light into something warm and deliberate. The collection runs about 3,000 works, covering Edo-period lacquerware, Rimpa paintings, Noh costumes, and glassware, but none of it stays up permanently. Exhibitions rotate every few months, so two visits in a year will show you different things entirely. The museum shop carries art books and design objects that go beyond typical gift shop fare. Paired with 21_21 Design Sight and the National Art Center a short walk away, Roppongi makes for a full afternoon of serious contemporary and traditional art.