Sakaemachi Ichiba

Founded in 1949, this labyrinthine covered market a few blocks from Asato Station lives a double life. By day around 120 vendors sell fish, pork, vegetables, and household goods to neighborhood regulars. After dark the shuttered stalls give way to a constellation of tiny izakaya and food counters serving cheap Okinawan home cooking, yakitori, and dumplings under bare bulbs. Far grittier and more local than nearby Makishi.