Nishin Soba Matsuba

Nishin soba is credited to Matsuba, the original shop near the Minami-za theater in Gion, which began serving buckwheat noodles topped with sweet-simmered Pacific herring in the Meiji era. The herring is cooked separately in a mixture of soy sauce, mirin, and sugar until it glazes deeply and becomes almost candy-soft. Placed on top of a bowl of warm soba in light dashi, the combination of the sweet fish and the savory broth creates something that became a Kyoto staple. The shop is unpretentious and busy throughout lunch.