Izuju

Izuju sits just across the road from Yasaka Shrine in Gion, serving Kyoto's version of sushi rather than the Tokyo-style nigiri that dominates everywhere else. Oshizushi here means layers of fish pressed tightly over seasoned rice in a wooden mold, then sliced into firm rectangles. The most common is saba-zushi, vinegared mackerel over rice wrapped in kelp. The flavors are more assertive and the textures more compact than hand-formed nigiri. Long queues form at lunch; arriving early or late in the afternoon helps.