Shinjuku Golden Gai

Six narrow alleys in Kabukicho, holding around 200 small bars in buildings often barely two meters wide. The blocks survived Tokyo's postwar redevelopment, leaving a streetscape closer to 1960s Shinjuku than to anything else in the present city. Most bars seat between four and ten people. Many carry a cover charge of ¥500–¥1,500 on top of drinks, and a few are members-only or politely refuse first-time tourists. The area gets going around 21:00 and stays open past midnight. Daytime visits show the architecture but miss the point.