Akagumi

At Akagumi's long counter in Kanazawa, a pot of golden dashi broth simmers constantly, holding the building blocks of a very good evening. Kanazawa oden differs from Tokyo's version through its lighter broth and distinctive local ingredients: crab-stuffed tofu pouches, baigai sea snails, and kurumafu wheat gluten wheels. The sake list pulls heavily from Ishikawa Prefecture's breweries, and the staff are glad to guide you through the options. On cold evenings this place fills fast, oden being the quintessential winter comfort food on the snowy Sea of Japan coast. Sitting at the counter and pointing at whatever looks best is the right approach.